The Rio Chucunaque cuts through the center of Yaviza. The main bank holds the larger half of the community; where the banana boats and river ferries begin their daily work. Here, the Pan-American Highway narrows to a single lane sidewalk that provides walkways for foot traffic and the occasional delivery truck. The other side of the river is occupied by a cluster of wooden homes and a one story, cement block hospital. “There’s an Indian community on that side”, I’m told by many. Most of the Embara in this area live on that side. The Embara women distinguish themselves from the others by wearing brightly colored, floral print wraps around their torsos. The colors are so bright that they match the various birds and flowers that beautifully decorate the town. The two sides of Yaviza are connected by a steel suspension bridge that was built in December of 2011. When people cross you can hear the steel plates banging against each other as the bridge sways from side to side. To walk the bridge takes a learned type of navigation. The swaying will make you feel like you will spill into the river, but if you walk gently your smooth movements will put your body in sync with the shifting bridge. This bridge is a kind of machine that sifts outsiders from locals; the former gripping the handrail for added balance. Prior to the bridge, the only connection between the two banks were the river ferries that navigate the two halves of the community. While the bridge has reduced the need for the ferries, they are still the preferred choice for those carrying loaded bags and children from one side to the other. You can get lost in watching them operate. Prodding the river floor with their long wooden poles. Pushing their canoes far enough away from the bank until they can drop their motors into the muddy waters. The ferry operators show off their familiarity with their canoes’ bobbing motion as they hop from plank to plank directing their passengers into their seats.